Mokume Gane Wedding Rings

For years, I used only one type of mokume in my rings and other jewelry, except for a couple of experimental patterns I named “Snakeskin” and “Dragonskin.” Recently, I’ve developed a new pattern called “Green Banks,” described below.

The alloys I use in my original mokume, which I have now named "Red, Green, & Silver", are:

• 18-karat green gold (Many people do not realize that a karat of gold refers to one 24th part of the alloy, by weight. So 18K means a gold alloy that is 18 parts gold, and the other 6 parts something else. What that something else is--silver, copper, palladium, and so on--determines the color of the alloy.)
• 18-karat red gold . I used to use 14K, but I finally formulated an 18K red with a good, strong color, so I’ve upgraded.
• Sterling silver (92.5% silver, 7.5% copper)

I use the red and green golds because of their high contrast. I mix these alloys myself from the pure metals, because I prefer the colors I can achieve to ready-made commercial alloys.

The silver in "Red, Green, & Silver" is there to act as a separator. Since the silver can be etched away slightly, without affecting the gold, it allows me to create a textured surface. The texture is appealing in itself, and helps the smooth gold lines to stand out. I also usually oxidize the silver to a charcoal black color to further enhance the visual impact of the pattern.

A unique feature of this type of mokume is that there is little or no discontinuity where the ends of the pattern meet.

The alloys in Green Banks mokume are:

• 18K palladium white gold
• 15,5K green gold (An experiment, I couldn’t see any improvement in color over 18K green, so I’ll be upgrading to that on the next batch.)
• Fine silver (99.9% pure)
• Pure Platinum (99.9%)
• 18K red gold

I called it Green Banks because it resembles a red river with green banks, flowing through hills. Experimentation showed that this pattern looks better without etching, so I leave it smooth.

I mix my own red and green gold alloys from the pure metals, because I prefer the high –contrast colors I can achieve compared to ready-made commercial alloys.

If the metals in a mokume pattern are polished too highly, the distinctiveness of their colors can be diminished, so I use a matte finish on the mokumesurface.

The inner liner, and the rims if any, can be made of any precious metal, including platinum. I generally put a high polish on these.

Pairs of rings can be made with identical or mirror-image patterns, regardless of size differences.

Different widths of mokume or of rims, comfort fit (where the inner surface of the ring is curved, instead of flat, from edge to edge), stone settings, and varied designs are all available on request. Look in the gallery above for ideas!

I Don't Know My Ring Size!

If you don't know your ring size, I can send you a ring sizer to try on. It's important to measure carefully. Phone or email me for advice on the best way to do this.

I can re-size my mokume gane rings (+/- 1 size), but it's more involved than a typical ring sizing. If you should ever need your mokume ring re-sized, please allow me to do it. Other goldsmiths, no matter how skilled, are unlikely to obtain the best results.

Prices

With so many possible variations, each ring is designed, and priced, individually, but the following list can serve as a guideline. Obviously, the precious metals market, which fluctuates constantly, is also a factor.

I require a one-third deposit to commit to the order. I want only satisfied clients, so I will do whatever I can to make sure that you become one.

Aside from mokume rings, of which I have made hundreds, pricing custom jewelry is almost harder that making it. It requires estimating the materials (easy) and, the labor (difficult) needed to make something I have never made before. Nevertheless, I have not deviated from an estimate in decades, unless metals prices changed radically during the fulfillment of the commission.

Consultation about your order will cost you nothing, but I charge $100 for detailed designing, whether by hand or by computer. The design fee is non-refundable.

I am only able to accept a limited number of commissions these days. If I can not carry out your piece myself, I know many other highly skilled goldsmiths I can recommend.